The Watchtowers of La Union

Watchtowers are integral part of community structures, especially of those settlements found along the coastlines, during the time when the Philippines was still under the Spanish crown. Through these structures, the villagers are warned against impending attack of pirates/enemies, making it possible for them to flee to higher grounds, or prepare to foil the attack. Nowadays, watchtowers serve local fishermen's guides to the shore while many of the old ones serve as testament to the history and heritage of the the town where they are located.

One of the most famous watchtowers in the Philippines is that of Luna, La Union. It is known to locals as "Baluarte" and is one of Luna's top tourist drawer along with the town's century old church which enshrines the Our Lady of Namacpacan (Namacpacan is the old name of Luna). 

What's not known to many people is that Baluarte is just one of the many watchtowers dotting the coast of La Union stretching from Bauang in the south up to Luna in the north. In 2014, these watchtowers were proclaimed by the National Museum as National Cultural Treasures ensuring that all of these watchtowers will be protected and preserved. Unfortunately, only Luna's watchtower has been given attention by the National Museum as of now. It is also the only one that bears National Cultural Marker installed by the National Museum.

Below are the 6 existing watchtowers of La Union, some of which are 75% still intact and a little bit of restoration would suffice to bring them to their former glory as compared to some others which are in a very decrepit status and needs immediate attention to be saved by the proper government heritage institutions. The first one, Bauang Watchtower, is not part of the National Cultural Treasures inscription of the National Museum, as of now.

BAUANG WATCHTOWER

Starting from the south, a watchtower made of river rocks stands at the coast of Barangay Pugo, in Bauang, La Union. Tales about it as ruins of an old church abounds with the locals as stated in the blog of Mr. Ian Gomez, the blogger behind www.pagnapagna.com (Mr. Gomez is the one who discovered, and shared information about this watchtower to many people. He is an architect by profession and a hiking artist).

Bauang Watchtower

The materials used in the construction of this old watchtower is different from the other watchtowers existing in La Union. It is constructed with river rocks or mamposteria which could make it older than the others which were constructed from coral stones or bricks. Or it can be a newer structure, which just used river rocks.

SAN FERNANDO WATCHTOWER

Some 3 kms. north of the present municipal hall of San Fernando can be found the San Fernando Watchtower located in Brgy. Carlatan. A curious thing is that this watchtower can be found far from the old Pindangan ruins (which can be found south of the municipal hall), the former center of the old town of San Fernando. 

This watchtower can be easily reached, being conveniently located near the Coca Cola Plant, in the once beautiful resort of Carille Terraces. From San Fernando proper, one can ride a jeep going north and just ask the driver to drop him off at Coca-cola Plant. At the right side of the plant is a somewhat narrow street that leads to Carille Terraces where the old watchtower is located. Entrance to the property is Php 20.00 (which we be paid to the man who I think is the caretaker of the place).

The watchtower has been altered by the resort owner. It was plastered with concrete cement and decorated with concrete reliefs. It was also fitted with second floor so that the visitors can reach the top of the watchtower. It was painted upon and weeds and plants were left to grow, maybe to add some effects.

The watchtower is originally made with coral stones and is circular in shape just like all the other watchtowers in the area. The local government of San Fernando should do something about the other structures built very close to this watchtower. They should clean and restore the watchtower and allot a clear space around it,  with no other structure present in order preserve it and be more well-appreciated just like the one in Luna. This watchtower can still be saved because most of the original part is still there.

SAN JUAN WATCHTOWER

Next tower to the north is that of San Juan, which is also very easy to reach. One just has to take the road at the left side of the San Juan municipal hall, walking towards San Juan National High School. At the end of the road at the left side of that high school is the watchtower.

This watchtower is almost 75% reconstruction. The 25% are the ruins that was left of the old watchtower while the remaining part was rebuilt with hollow blocks. Fortunately, the builders was able to recreate the shape of the watchtower accurately albeit the color and materials used is obviously different.

Aside from the original coral stone, the watchtower was also thickened with bricks, which maybe a later addition. This watchtower stands on a sandy beach and can be found approximately 50-100 meters from the shore.

BACNOTAN WATCHTOWER

This watchtower is inside a private property and is not easily accessible. Just like the other surviving watchtowers of La Union, this one is made with coral stones and bricks, and is surrounded by thick vegetation. It can be found at the shore, far from Bacnotan town proper. Ian of pagnapagna.com was able to visit it (and was able to take the picture of a part of the watchtower above) through perseverance and asking help from the right people. 

BALAOAN WATCHTOWER

This watchtower stands far from the busy town proper of Balaoan and is located at it's western barangay of Almeida, near its boundary with Barangay Darigayos of the town of Luna. It can be reached by riding a tricycle or jeep from Balaoan town proper going to Barangay Darigayos, or by riding a tricycle from Luna Town Proper.

There is no sign yet that it is being preserved and maintained by any government institution but fortunately, it is still undisturbed by any nearby constructions. It can be found right at the beach of Almeida, part of what is known as the Darigayos Cove.

The materials used are coral stone with later addition of red bricks. It is currently in the center of a thick foliage but during our visit, it is evident that the thick foliage was cut/cleaned.

This watchtower is near Camp Spencer and USAFIP NL Military Shrine, a park developed through Proclamation 590 of former president Fidel Ramos as a way of commemorating the important and historic event that happened in the place during World War II.

LUNA WATCHTOWER

Capping up this La Union Watchtower tour is the most famous of them all : BALUARTE or the Luna Watchtower! 

Among all the watchtowers, this is the most popular, most easily accessible, and the best maintained. This watchtower was also made with corals stones but with exterior finish of red bricks.  Half of the watchtower collapsed during Typhoon Lando in 2015 but was restored to its former appearance and shape by the LGU following the guidelines set by National Museum in 2017.The restoration work was beautiful and the contrast between the old and new wall makes it pleasing to look at.

It can be easily reached by taking the road at the side of the church towards the beach. Or one may ride a tricycle if s/he is in a hurry or doesn't want to walk. 

Visiting all these watchtowers could definitely bring satisfaction to heritage buffs like myself even though it might be impossible to ordinary people (just like myself again) because of some restrictions especially that of Bacnotan. I am hoping that there will come a time that all of these watchtowers will be restored and preserved properly (just like that of Luna), and be easily accessible to everyone.